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By Syed Wajeeh-ul-Hassan Naqvi

The capital of North Yemen, Sana’a is situated on the Asir Mountain at an altitude of 2,300 meters. The high altitude has given Sana’a the iciest, frostiest weather in the Arabian Peninsula, making it one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region.

As my airplane made its final descend to the landing field, a mélange of green fields dotted with peculiar fairytale-like mud castles slowly came into sight. Mile after mile of carefully irrigated fields stretched below, broken only by a sporadic mountain peak or two.

The city of Sana’a is divided into two quite distinct halves: there is the ancient walled city, and surrounding the old city is the more modern Sana’a. Even though modern Sana’a is alive and bustling; a place full of tooting cars and new buildings, the remains of the old city can still be seen in the backdrop. Through the heart of the city runs Wadi Sana’a (Sana’a valley), from where water would once spring all year round, but for the past three decades, the flow has become seasonal.

Surprisingly enough, the hotel I was to stay at was fully booked. Thankfully, the driver who gave me a ride to the hotel from the airport, offered me his house to stay at, which was only a few yards away from the hotel. Not having much of a choice, I promptly and gladly accepted the invitation and followed him into one of those fairytale-like mud castles I had spotted from the plane. Both of us dragged my luggage up three flights of stairs to the room where I ended up spending the next six days.

The abodes of Sana’a are unique; soaring and graceful, more like the ancestors of the modern skyscrapers. The age of these houses vary; but carbon dating tests have proven that a few of them are as old as 500 years. There are often as many as nine floors in each house, usually decorated with elaborate alabaster and wood carvings, with each house having its own distinct features. You can often find an old-fashioned well inside the house, enabling water to be drawn straight into the home. Yemenis used stone, granite or basalt to build the initial three floors. The remaining floors are built from baked mud bricks and the roof is waterproofed with lime and gravel.

The second floor of the house is usually reserved for storing goods. The third floor, usually used for entertaining guests, also has a kitchen-like area for the preparation of food items which are offered to the guests. The fourth floor has a kitchen and a room specifically for women and children, while the fifth floor has large rooms and is mostly used for family gatherings such as marriages. The sixth floor has the main family bedrooms and finally there is the top floor with rooms lined with beautiful stained-glass windows on two or even three sides, keeping the cool breeze flowing and the temperatures low.

No one knows the exact age of Sana’a but I am sure that it is one of the oldest cities in the world. The Great Mosque of Sana’a dates to the first years of Islam and was renovated in 705CE. Yemen is also famous all around the world for its coffee. Mockha, an ancient Red-Sea port has given its name to Yemeni coffee, which is now grown in the mountains.

This history of agriculture has also contributed to the rich culture of Yemen and has helped its residents develop their distinct style of architecture as well as intricate crafts such as jewellery and wood carvings. The best place to see all that Yemen has to offer is in the city of Sana’a.

Quite distinct from modern Sana’a, the old city is a serene place. Each corner has something new and distinct to offer, each street has its own character. The focal point of the old Sana’a is its huge market dotted with colourful souks and kiosks. The most famous is the Souk-Al-Milh, where one can still see the towers used by watchmen responsible for maintaining market prices and ensuring that all trading practices were fair. Further on, the traditional Bedouin jewellery pulls you towards the silver market. Here you can also buy Jambiahs, the traditional knife worn round the waist by most Yemeni men. Jambiah is very costly and can also be the most expensive item owned by most Yemeni men.

Yemen is also famed for its spices; and it is said that the Romans were also drawn here by them. Yemenis traded with the Far East for centuries, in fact, it was a Yemeni who introduced to the Arabian Peninsula a kind of bread known as Khubz, now widely eaten throughout the Middle East.

Before I knew it, my six days in Sana’a came to an end but everywhere I went, from the old city’s souks to receptions in private homes, to which the people of Sana’a were gracious enough to invite me, I was greeted by an openness of spirit. Sana’a could have had no better advertisement.